![]() įor a good non-video discussion see this link. From a stress on the mast stand point, the rigging tension is to prevent mast "flexing and bending" excessively. In-mast furling is a mechanism within your mast. I try not to argue since, I know in-mast on MY boat and not YOURs. And in both the furling video and the on the water video I make the point of releasing it.verbally as well as doing it.Ĭlick to expandI intentionally stressed YOUR boat. But as an an illustration, we had a couple in the south pacific with a 15 year old furling main have horrible problems (no surprise I guess) but they wanted a sail delivered to Tahiti.I suggested cleaning the system and doing the lube part of this.and it worked and well enough that the finished their trip to New Zealand before replacing the main some months later. The softer the sail, the less likely it will hold on to it's 'original' shape.and furling seems to get increasingly more difficult as time goes on. Older sails get soft from use and from furling. And if you have any question, check your mast model number on the mast and discuss the proper setup with the mast maker. But for the line of Beneteau's over the last 20 years, US-Spars recommends on the masts they supply with the boat to have a minimal amount of bend, as do we. Now having said that, there are certain boats, many of the Hunters being the example that have lots of pre-bend like those set up with the D&R rig style. So I disagree here.a pre-bent mast creates a situation where the extrusion and furled main inside the mast 'drape' around the pre-bend of the mast.this cause unnecessary and needless friction. It's just a matter of setting up that way. >Prebend only affects performance in so much as it can flatten out your mainsail.you can have the same amount of static rig tension on the whole rig with 2" of prebend or zero prebend. It will make your life much easier.though I have furled down wind with the main draped onto the spreader in light air at the dock.but one should always aim to furl when head to wind. The higher clew has a shallower 'sheeting' angle.and as the sail goes in, this helps to keep the car on the boom sliding easily.pulling more forward than up. the clew 'rises' as it goes into the mast.like a barbershop pole.this keeps the sail from just winding up at that tack which would result in a sail too thick to go into the mast.Ģ. This higher clew then in turn does two things:ġ. You almost never see a furling main with a 90degree tack.as the general rule is that the clew rise about 1" per foot of boom length. So the sail size/clew height is determined by the rig requirements. The tack angle is dictated by the required boom height.if you have a mainsheet bridge or tall dodger say, you could easily need the boom to be 80degrees.AND the sail has to be cut accordingly. The sail in the video has a tack angle of 85degrees.what you can's see is that the mast is raked about 15" on the B38's.which decreases the tack angle. Thanks for your comments, my below yours. If the wrinkle is in the last few feet, you may have sail stretch. A quick suggestion is to let your boom float and maintain a slight tension on outhaul when furling. I wrote Z-Spars about pre-bend for my Hunter 430.Īsk the Designer of your your main and mine are much bigger. I called US-Spars and talked for 30 minutes about the "mechanism' with their guru. You Must let your Boom kinda "float" or it will force a sail jam. Not mentioned, But KEY.Ħ) Size of your Main sail FOOT determines how many "winch turns" to furl/unfurl. ![]() That was a new one!ĥ) He also released the Main Sheet. Consider it for YOUR boat's performance.Ĥ) Stiffness of That Sail. Talk about Friction, if not.ģ) Pre-Bend is not a "Furling Thing". Pointing the boat into wind and no wind in sail. My main sail is ≈80°Ģ) Not stressed, but KEY KEY KEY. 1) The main sail luff to foot angle ≈90° and his boom angle matched.
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